Born at Fotheringhay, Northamptonshire, in 1452,
Richard spent much of his adult life at Middleham Castle in Yorkshire, or the
nearby Sheriff Hutton, home to his influential Council in the North. He was a
son of York by name and inclination, choosing it as the location for the
investiture of his young son as Prince of Wales.
Just weeks after his 1483 coronation, he left London
behind and headed north on progress, taking his southern Lords along for the
ride, in order to display to them the extent of his support in his homelands.
After his death at Bosworth Field, it was the York city’s chronicler who
lamented his demise, recording how the King was “piteously slain” through
treason, to the “great loss” of his subjects.
Over the centuries, Richard has been accused of many
things but being a Londoner is not one of them. Yet throughout his life, he was
frequently in the capital, attending sessions of Parliament and ceremonial
occasions at court. London was the heart of Government; his presence there was
unavoidable. It was a city whose churches, streets and palaces would have been
familiar to Richard as a boy and would have proved a cosmopolitan and exciting
capital for its future King.
This Elizabeth map shows a city comparable in size to Richard's.
The London of the 1460s was much smaller than the
present city. It was also greener, with a higher proportion of private gardens
and open spaces. Early medieval maps show that most people lived between the
Tower in the East and Fleet Street to the West. There was not much development
to the north beyond Bishopsgate and Cripplegate, although several large
monastic establishments, like St Bartholomew’s, St Mary Spital and St
Catherine’s lay outside the walls. Richard would have found London dominated by
the estates of the wealthy, whose grand stone townhouses were built around
courtyards backing onto the river, with their own gardens and orchards. The
high gates of their properties would have been locked and guarded at night by
men in brightly coloured livery. Often there would be a swarm of poorer
citizens waiting outside at nightfall, for the leftovers from that day’s meals
to be distributed by the almoner.
Extremes of poverty and affluence sat side by side.
Disease, illness and dirt were everywhere but the city did take steps to clean
the streets, regulating the disposal of waste and the wild animals that had
historically been a problem. One fourteenth century baby girl was killed in her
cradle after being bitten by one of the pigs that roamed loose, scavenging for
food. Inquest records also report a large number of drownings, particularly of
women and children, who had travelled to one of the many ditches or tributaries
of the Thames in order to gather water. There were accidents with runaway
horses, heavy carts, collapsing walls, fires, fatal brawls between retainers,
drunks and rioting apprentices. Death and violence must have never been very
far away.
In contrast with the poverty and danger, the second
half of the fifteenth century also saw a surge of upward social mobility. City
merchants had got wealthy trading in wool and London was a major international
port, with ships arriving from the continent and beyond, bringing and exporting
luxury goods. This was one of the reasons they had largely remained loyal to
Richard’s brother, Edward IV, whose pro-Burgundian policies had encouraged such
trade and the glut of luxury items available. Roads were named after the goods
they sold, with signs for the illiterate. Italian diplomat Mancini described
three principal streets: Thames Street with cranes and warehouses for the
loading and unloading of ships, Candlewick Street with its cloth merchants and
Cheapside, where luxury goods such as tapestries, gold and silver, jewellery
and silks were on sale.
The Scottish poet William Dunbar, who visited the “sovereign”
city of London in 1501-2, compared it with the city of Troy. His pleasant
beryl-coloured Thames throngs with swans and sailing barges, running under
bridges with white pillars. In the streets, merchants and knights appear
dressed in velvet gowns with chains of gold; it was a beautiful city full of
wise, attractive inhabitants: the merchants’ wives were fair and “lovesom,
white and small” while the girls were “clear” which suggests good health, “but
lusty.” The merchants’ modern dwellings spread upwards rather than outwards,
several storeys high, with their glazed windows, painted mortar and timber.
Shortly before he became King, Richard would acquire
one of these houses himself; one of the grandest and newest of them all. Some
time between 1475 and 1483, he rented Crosby Place in Bishopsgate, which was
described by Elizabethan antiquarian, John Stow, as a “great house of stone and
timber,” with rear gardens, courtyard, great chamber, chapel, solar, great hall
with marble floors, carved ceiling, minstrels’ gallery and an oriel window.
According to Thomas More, it was here that Richard would hold informal council
meetings during the tempestuous summer of 1483 and where, with Buckingham, he
would plan his coup. When Shakespeare included references to Richard’s
ownership of Crosby Place during the funeral procession of Henry VI, he was out
by at least five years!
Nineteenth Century Engraving of the Great Hall of Crosby Place
After Edward’s succession, the nine-year-old Richard
lived for a while at the Palace of Placentia, at Greenwich. It was a luxurious
residence which had previously been used by his family’s adversaries Henry VI
and Margaret of Anjou. Greenwich itself was barely a village, surrounded by
countryside. As late as 1554, Wyngaerde’s illustration shows a only scattering
of small houses on either side of the waterfront Palace with its enclosed
gardens. It had been built in the 1440s by Henry VI’s ill-fated uncle,
Humphrey, Duke of Gloucester, which was fitting as the same title had just been
bestowed upon the young boy. Richard was provided for in the King’s household
accounts of 1461, during his stay at the Palace and for the transportation of
his goods between there and his childhood home of Fotheringhay. It was amid the
tranquil green surrounding of Greenwich, that his other brother, George, Duke
of Clarence, began his chivalric training as a “henxman,” although Richard
would leave the city in order undergo his own military education under his
future father-in-law, Warwick, at his northern home, Middleham Castle.
The young Richard also spent time in the London
household of Thomas Bourchier, Archbishop of Canterbury and Lord Chancellor.
Bourchier was also related to the Yorks through marriage and was himself a
grandson of Edward III. Having recently crowned Richard’s elder brother, he
extended his hospitality to the boy, receiving compensation for supporting the
King’s brothers “for a long time and at great charges” so Richard may well have
been resident in his household for a period of time. His main residence was at
Knole, in Kent, but during Richard’s youth, his title brought with it the use
of Lambeth Palace, across the water from Westminster. The present red-brick
gateway post-dates Richard, being built by Morton, Bourchier’s successor; the
boy would have known a simpler gateway housing the Palace archives, where
beggars would gather for alms or “Lambeth Dole.” Richard may even have watched
from a window as they were issued with their weekly allowance of fifteen loaves
and cuts of beef. Richard would have dined with Bourchier in the Great Hall,
recently modernised by Archbishop Chichele, with kitchens to the north and
pantry and buttery to the west. An impressive four thousand people could be fed
there. Richard would also have known the cloister with its newly build
galleries on the first floor and the thirteenth century presence chamber and
chapel. By the time he was a guest there, the moated gardens and orchard were
flanked by a river walk, allowing the boy to glimpse the comings and goings
across the Thames.
Westminster was the heart of the court, set outside
the central residential area of the city, connected to it by river and a single
long road leading to Charing Cross. Charing was still recognisable as the
hamlet it had once been, located on the bend of the Thames, where Edward I had
erected a cross in tribute to his wife Eleanor. The Palace grounds were a
self-contained little community catering for the court. Shops and workshops
catered to the royal family’s physical needs, while the Abbey provided
spiritual comforts and printer William Caxton set up his first English press
there in 1476, under the patronage of Edward IV’s in-laws, the Wydevilles. The
prosperity and bustle of Westminster is captured in London Lickpenny, a poem composed during the reign of Henry VI,
once thought to be by John Lydgate. He describes tradesmen calling “Master, what
will you copen or buy?
Fine
felt hats or spectacles to read?” and cooks offering “bread, with ale and wine,
Ribs of beef, both fat and full fine; A faire cloth they gan forth to spread…”
Engraving of Westminster Palace as it appeared in 1647
Beyond the confines of Westminster, the narrator is
offered strawberries, cherries, pepper and spices, hot sheep’s feet, mackerel,
rushes, pies and peasecods as well as fine velvet, silk, lawn and Paris thread.
What could be seen of the Palace in the 1470s was mixture of medieval
architectural styles, building on the foundations laid by Edward the Confessor.
Closely connected with the Abbey, much of the ceremonial business took place in
the Great Hall and painted chamber, while the royal apartments formed a right
angle overlooking the river and gardens. It was a peaceful location, as the
opposite bank was marshy and undeveloped, save for the view of Lambeth Palace.
From the steps, Richard could take a barge downstream into the city itself,
past the backs of aristocratic homes, along to the imposing white bastion of
the Tower.
The Thames was the city’s main thoroughfare, wider
than it is today and bobbing with vessels of all types but there was only one
way across on foot. Already hundreds of
years old, London Bridge had played witness to a series of important moments in
the history of the city. When Margaret of Anjou had arrived in 1445, Humphrey,
the previous Duke of Gloucester had met her on the bridge amid much civic
pageantry with men dressed in gilt badges and the blue and scarlet gowns of
office. Only five years later it was the
scene of rebellion as Jack Cade’s men advanced across the bridge, slashing its
supporting ropes to prevent the royal troops from following. After Cade had been
hunted down and killed, his head adorned the bridge as a deterrent to other
would-be traitors. More recently, Edward IV had passed over it in triumph on
his way to his coronation and a decade later, attacks on the capital designed
to free the Lancastrian Henry VI saw the bridge engulfed in flames. Thirteen
houses had burned before the citizens had seen the rebels off. By the time of
Richard’s succession, the bridge was in poor repair, with houses regularly
falling down and drowning the residents.
Richard would have been familiar with much of the
Tower of London as it stands today. It had long stood as an inviolable
fortress, representing the power of the crown, as opposed to the sinister
reputation it would later attract. In the 1470 though, while Richard was in
exile, it had been attacked by rebels and witnessed the readeption of the
unstable Henry VI. Rumours of Richard’s involvement in Henry’s murder the
following year are unsubstantiated but persist through popular literature. It
was also the site where the volatile Clarence finally met his end, in the
legendary butt of Malmsey, in 1478.
Such portrayals are responsible for many of the
overriding negative associations between Richard and the Tower, also
attributing to him the deaths of his nephews incarcerated there. Yet it was
within those thick walls that he passed the day before his coronation, as
tradition dictated. It was a multi-functional complex, containing the royal
apartments where Elizabeth Wydeville had planned to give birth to Edward V
before being evicted by the rebels, chapels, spaces for recreation, offices
where coins were minted, the Great Wardrobe, the Crown Jewels and a menagerie,
as well as being a prison. He also made some improvements to one of the towers
during his reign.
The Tower of London, from a C15th MS
Several great houses of London were also known to Richard
through his family connections. His brother George, Duke of Clarence lived at
Coldharbour House in Thames Street, in the parish of All-Hallows-the-Less, or
perhaps All-Hallows-in-the-Hay, named after an adjoining hay wharf, near where
the London Brewery now stands. It was an ancient and important “right fair and
stately” house, according to John Stowe, originally two fortified buildings on
the river front, which had been home to Henry IV in 1400 and to Henry V during
his tenure as Prince of Wales. Following the attainder of Anne of York’s
husband, Henry Holland, the property came into the possession of the crown and
was used by various members of the York family. It is mentioned in a
mid-seventeeth century play, by Heywood and Rowley, as having twenty chimneys,
and was reputed to have a number of turrets built around a courtyard and
believed to be impregnable. In the 1460s it had been owned by the Lancastrian
Henry Holland, Duke of Exeter, but was confiscated after his involvement in the
Battle of Barnet.
On a more personal note, Richard’s future wife, Anne
Neville, was sent to Coldharbour House after being widowed at the battle of
Tewkesbury. Aged only fifteen, she was under her married sister’s
guardianship. Richard visited them there
at Christmas 1471, which was when he may have wooed her and planned their
elopement the following spring. The rumours that Clarence concealed her in his
kitchens, disguised as a kitchen maid stem from this period. Richard’s
sister Margaret of York, wife of Charles the Bold, stayed at the house when
visiting the city in 1480, where new beds with red and green hangings were
prepared for her comfort, along with fine bed linens, curtains, screens and
tapestries, one depicting Paris and Helen of Troy. Richard would give the house
to the city Heralds for their support of his succession but after
the battle of Bosworth, it passed into the hands of Margaret Beaufort.
Nineteenth century illustration of Coldharbour House
After the death of his brother Clarence, the house
named the Erber came into Richard’s possession. It had been owned by his mentor
the Earl of Warwick, Anne’s father, but had originally been passed on to Anne’s
elder sister, Clarence’s wife Isabel. After 1478, the Gloucesters again had the
use of it. It had been used to lodge Yorkist troops during the late 1450s and
the kitchens were reputed to be able to feed 2,000 a day, with six oxen needed for breakfast alone. Richard carried out
some repairs to it and renamed it, briefly, the “King’s Palace.” In his
absences, the property was looked after by a Ralph Darnel, a yeoman of the
crown and it reverted to Clarence’s son, Edward, after Bosworth. Anne may well
have stayed here in 1475, while she waited for Richard to return from
accompanying the King on his campaign to France; they were reunited in London
that December, making payments to city merchants on the third and sixth of the
month.
Then there was Baynard’s Castle at Blackfriars,
residence of the Duke of York, Richard’s father since 1457. It was an
impressive waterfront mansion, fortified with turrets and thick walls enclosing
a courtyard, originally built in Norman times for a supporter of William the
Conqueror. Rebuilt on the water’s edge following a fire in 1428, its huge river
frontage was set with narrow turrets flanked by hexagonal towers at each end,
enclosing a private courtyard; improvements in the 1440s had created four wings
in a trapezoid shape and by the early 1500s it was considered “beautiful and
commodious” as well as strong. Supposedly inviolable, the family had recourse
to it on many occasions when they, or the city, were under attack. Edward and
his Queen, Elizabeth Wydeville stayed there between his return from exile and
the Battle of Barnet. Richard would have spent time here during his childhood
and after his father’s death, his mother continued to use the property. It was
in the hall there, in 1461, that Edward IV summoned a council and declared himself King.
Riding out of the city and heading north, Richard
would have passed through the green fields that lay beyond the walls. Much of
this land was undeveloped, dotted with hamlets. The sixteenth century historian
Stow described the area known as Moorfields as a “waste and unprofitable
ground.” It was often marshy and when it froze over in winter, was used for
sliding on; the monk Fitzstephen, writing in the twelfth century described the “London
youth” tying the leg bones of animals to their shoes to make primate skates. In
the early fifteenth century, a new gate had been built allowing access out onto
the fields. Another open space was Spitalfields, or the Hospital Fields of St
Mary; Richard may have known it as Spittellond, as it appeared in records of
1399. In the shadow of the Tower, it is depicted on maps, with women laying out
their washing flat on the ground to dry. There was also Smithfield, a large
grassy space or “smoothfield,” long used for livestock markets, public
gatherings, executions and drying laundry. It was situated on the Eastern side
of the Tower, accessible by the Postern Gate and used for tournaments. In 1467,
the teenaged Richard may have witnessed the jousting there between Anthony
Wydeville and Anthony, Comte de la Roche, the “Grand Bastard of Burgundy, who
was heading a party of Burgundians negotiating Margaret’s marriage. Ten years
later, he returned to attend another significant occasion, a feast hosted by
his seven-year old nephew, Edward V, with whose fate he would become
irrevocably linked. On that occasion, Richard was the first to kiss his hand
and swear loyalty.
Old St Paul's, before the fire of London.
Richard was a northerner by birth and by choice.
There is no doubt though, that the capital city was of great importance to him.
It was where many of the significant events of his life took place: his wooing
of Anne, their marriage, the events that led to his succession in 1483, his
wife’s death and the important political decisions of his reign. However,
Yorkshire was his home; it was here that he established his
marital home and where his son was born and died. Perhaps the two locations may
suggest the dichotomic struggle between the personal and political which
underpinned his downfall.