What did medieval and Tudor men and women wear under
their clothes ? For a large percentage of the population, clothes were
laboriously handmade and passed down in wills and bequests. Few people outside
the aristocracy had extensive wardrobes, which suggests early forms of
underwear were also fairly homely and plain. Given the strength of the English
wool market in the fourteenth century, spinning and knitting were very common;
such garments could be easily made and repaired at home. Much depends upon climate
too; while wool would be suitable for cold, wet winters, lighter fabrics such
as linen would be more suitable for warmer times and affordable for the wealthy.
Even for royalty, though, keeping themselves clothed could be pricy: Elizabeth
of York paid 6d for a pair of socks in 1502, when a labourer might earn a daily
wage of 4d. However, while the twenty-first century bra with all its technology
and varieties seems strikingly modern, may be considerably older than we think.
Excavations in an Austrian castle in 2008 turned up
a vault filled with medieval textiles, including what appear to be some early
examples of underwear. Many were made from linen but some also had outer layers
of colourful wool. The bras comprised shaped cups and straps, with decorated
borders of a form of lace and a possible back strap. Another had a longer body section,
giving it the appearance of a modern corset with eye-holes to be laced together
with ribbons. Radio-carbon dating has confirmed these items came from the
fifteenth century. Larger breasts may have been bound, as Shakespeare has his
cross-dressing heroines do, although this was likely to have been more
practical when manual labour was being undertaken. With many working women of childbearing
years breastfeeding though, this would have been impractical and suggests the
existence of long-perished garments in the model of those discovered at Lengburg
Castle.
men's pants from Lengburg Castle
Knickers were quite a different matter though. In
the late medieval and Tudor periods, they were more likely to have been worn by
men! A pair found recently in Austria resemble a modern white bikini bottom,
with ties at the hip. These old pants were considered to be signs of dominance
and power; men required them for support and protection, emphasising their
superiority over women, who wore layers of skirts but no other underwear. This
must have made life difficult during menstruation, which was absorbed by the
traditional rags. Some sort of early girdle or belt must have been required to
hold these in place!
The thirteenth century Maciejowski Bible depict both
men and women in hose and the exclusively male braies or breeches. These come
close to a baggy sort of long knickers, loose about the bottom and rolled over
at the waist, while hose were three-quarter length stockings which were tied up
to a waist band. Manuscript illustrations show workers stripped down to this
bottom layer when labouring. Women’s hose and socks are far less visible in
these images, with usually just the foot showing, although these are often
striped. They could be tied in the same way as the men’s, creating a
complicated system of knots under the outer layers of clothing, although many
were shorter and held in place by garters. The quintessential codpiece, from “cod”
or scrotum was originally a soft flap or pouch, again tied in place, which may
have been an integral part of the braies or else a separate attachment. With
this as the only covering, male genitals were left vulnerable and exposed as
hem lines rose; correspondingly, the cod piece became more substantial. By the
time of Henry VIII’s famous groin-centric portrait of 1537, it was a symbol of
potency and virility. They were shaped and padded for emphasis, with some even
made of metal but died out towards the end of the sixteenth century.
So little early underwear survives that any
comprehensive theory on its use and existence must be ruled out. For women,
with their long dresses, the situation is even less certain, although
practicality, budget and climate must have dictated whatever solutions they
found for everyday wear. No doubt what appears elusive and fascinating now was
commonplace then; is it too hard to imagine scholars in the twenty-fifth
century getting excited over the lingerie of the present? At least there will
be plenty of documentation.
Henry VIII's codpiece
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